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MrEscort
New User
Sep 10, 2011, 6:46 PM
Post #1 of 8
(6263 views)
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Hey guys, I'm new here but I've been creeping around for awhile. I figured I'd finally start posting and I've got a sound diagnosis video for you.
This car is a 2000 Ford Escort, the zx2 model with the 2.0 DOHC and VCT. I just bought it (very cheaply) as a parts car... but managed to get it running again when I found all that was wrong was a timing belt idler pulley had let go. Now that I've got it running... I've got what I fear may be some Rod Knock happening.
This car is an ATX as well and I've heard that a cracked or loose flex plate can make similar sounds to bad lower ends. I've also noticed excessive carbon build up on the #1 Cyl Spark Plug.
The knock starts immediately at start-up and continues as long as the car is running. It never really goes away. It doesn't get better or worse as the car warms up, it stays pretty consistent. Also, I forgot to rev the car in the video, but the knock does follow the revs... it will knock "faster" as you rev the engine up until around the 3.5-4k mark where it gets pretty much drowned out by other engine noise.
Link to Vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyQL2mPGnME
So whatcha think? Stuck Valve? Flex Plate? Or straight up rebuild/engine swap?
Thanks in advance for any info/insight!
(This post was edited by MrEscort on Sep 10, 2011, 6:47 PM)
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 10, 2011, 7:18 PM
Post #2 of 8
(6253 views)
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What you could do is rev the engine to around 2000 rpm and disable each injector one at a time. See if the noise changes pitch on any particular cylinder just to confirm it isn't a rod bearing. You can also use a mechanic's stethoscope around the valve cover to get an idea where the noise is loudest.
A stuck valve would probably cause the engine to skip. A cracked flex plate would probably change noise frequency as you put the transmission in and out of gear and it would be really loud around the bell housing area.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Sep 10, 2011, 8:28 PM)
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 10, 2011, 8:25 PM
Post #3 of 8
(6228 views)
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You need to make a video of the noise while revving the engine. The more I listen to it the more it sounds like rod noise.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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MrEscort
New User
Sep 10, 2011, 9:28 PM
Post #4 of 8
(6216 views)
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I do what I can for you tomorrow. I can tell it you it doesn't get any worse (louder, more "clunky") with revs... it's just the same sound sped up to match revs.
Thanks for your input thus far... I was prepared for the worst but was hoping that maybe there was a possibility it could be something else.
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MrEscort
New User
Sep 11, 2011, 10:39 AM
Post #5 of 8
(6200 views)
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quick update... just pulled wires and disabled injectors one by one... no difference in sound... taking it to my uncles now to get it up in ramps and check underneath... should have a rev vid and any info about loose tranny components when I get back.
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MrEscort
New User
Sep 11, 2011, 2:22 PM
Post #6 of 8
(6188 views)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5ujQh99N34
There's the second vid with Revs. I hauled out a big screw driver and listened for noise around the engine.
Normal at Oil Pan
Normal at Lower Block
Normal at Left Valve Cover (where VCT resides)
More pronounced and "resonant" at right side Valve Cover
Constant Tick Tick Tick from Trans Bell housing...
Maybe, just maybe....
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Sep 11, 2011, 5:00 PM
Post #7 of 8
(6176 views)
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That really sounds like rod knock. My little laptop speakers don't hold a candle to larger speakers.
You could pull the oil pan off and check for play in big end of the rods. While you are there you'll be able to see the flex plate, so you can check for cracks. The oil pan isn't that hard to remove. You just have to remove the catalytic converter and the bolts holding the pan on.
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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zmame
Veteran
/ Moderator
Sep 11, 2011, 5:26 PM
Post #8 of 8
(6173 views)
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There are special tools you need too in order to put a new belt on these cars. TDC timing peg and CAM allignment tool.. They are basically a flat steel plate and a long metal peg to hold the crank.
I would make sure that is in order first befor diaging any further.
________________________________________________________
Ford Instructions
Timing Drive Components — Timing Belt
Special Tool(s) 
Crankshaft TDC Timing Peg
303-574 (T97P-6000-A)  Camshaft Alignment Timing Tool
303-465 (T94P-6256-CH)
Removal - Grasp the spark plug boot firmly and with a twisting pulling motion, disconnect the spark plug wires from the spark plugs.
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NOTE: If an original spark plug is reused, install it in the same cylinder from which it was removed. New spark plugs can be used in any cylinder.
NOTE: Use compressed air to remove any foreign material from the spark plug well before removing the spark plugs.Remove the spark plugs.
- Remove the valve cover. For additional information, refer to Valve Cover in this section.
- Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
 - Remove the timing belt covers. For additional information, refer to Timing Drive Components — Timing Belt Covers in this section.
- Remove the catalytic converter. For additional information, refer to Section 309-00.
-
NOTE: Cylinder No. 1 is at top dead center (TDC) when the keyway is in the 12 o'clock position.Position cylinder No. 1 just prior to TDC.
 - Remove the stud bolt.
 - Install the crankshaft TDC timing peg.
 - Rotate the crankshaft clockwise against the timing peg.
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 CAUTION: If the camshaft timing belt is to be reused, mark the direction of the camshaft timing belt to the rotation of the camshaft prior to removal, or premature wear or failure may occur.Relieve the tension on the timing belt tensioner pulley. - Loosen the tensioner pulley bolt.
- Release the tension on the timing belt by disconnecting the tensioner tab from the timing cover back plate.
 - Remove the timing belt.
- Slide the timing belt off the camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket.
 - Inspect the timing belt for wear. Install a new timing belt as required.
Installation -
CAUTION: The camshaft must be held stationary at the hexagons with locking pliers. Do not use the alignment tool to hold the camshaft in position or damage to the camshaft may occur.
NOTE: To loosen the camshaft pulleys, hold the camshafts by the hexagon.Loosen the camshaft pulleys. - Remove the blanking plug from the exhaust camshaft pulley.
- Loosen the exhaust camshaft pulley bolt.
- Loosen the intake camshaft pulley bolt.
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NOTE: Rotate the camshafts clockwise as necessary.Install the camshaft alignment timing tool on the back of the camshafts.
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NOTE: Cylinder No. 1 is at top dead center (TDC) when the keyway is in the 12 o'clock position.Confirm the crankshaft position is at TDC (No. 1 cylinder) by rotating it clockwise against the alignment peg.
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CAUTION: Do not rotate the crankshaft; as necessary check that it is still resting against the timing pin.
NOTE: The lug of the belt tensioner should not be hooked in the sheet metal cover during timing belt installation.Position a new timing belt in place. - Starting from the crankshaft timing belt pulley and working counterclockwise, position the timing belt in place while keeping it under tension.
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NOTE: Incorrect timing belt tension will cause incorrect valve timing.Pretension the timing belt. - Rotate the tensioner locating tab counterclockwise and insert the locating tab into the slot in the rear timing cover.
- Position the hex key slot in the tensioner adjusting washer to the 4 o'clock position.
- Tighten the attaching bolt enough to seat the tensioner firmly against the rear timing cover, but still allow the tensioner adjusting washer to be rotated using a 6 mm (0.23 in) hex key.
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CAUTION: Tension the timing belt, working counterclockwise.Using the hex key, rotate the adjusting washer counterclockwise until the notch in the pointer is centered over the index line on the locating tab (the pointer will move clockwise during adjustment).
- While holding the adjusting washer in position, tighten the bolt.
 -
CAUTION: The camshaft must be held stationary at the hexagons with locking pliers. Do not use the alignment tool to hold the camshaft in position or damage to the camshaft may occur.Tighten the bolt on the intake camshaft sprocket.
 -
CAUTION: The camshaft must be held stationary at the hexagons with locking pliers. Do not use the alignment tool to hold the camshaft in position or damage to the camshaft may occur.Tighten the bolt on the exhaust camshaft sprocket in three stages. - Stage 1: Tighten the bolt to 50 Nm (36 lb-ft).
- Stage 2: Remove the TDC peg and the camshaft alignment timing tool.
- Stage 3: Tighten the bolt to 115-125 Nm (85-92 lb-ft).
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NOTE: Install a new oil plug seal.Screw in the new oil plug on the variable camshaft timing assembly.
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NOTE: Turn the engine two turns in the normal direction of rotation by the crankshaft.Check the valve timing by inserting the special tools and correct the alignment as necessary. - Screw in special tool 303-574 and make sure that the crankshaft is resting against the special tool.
- Insert special tool 303-465 into the camshafts. If necessary loosen the timing pulleys and correct the camshaft alignment.
- Remove the special tools.
- Install the stud bolt.
- Install the catalytic converter. For additional information, refer to Section 309-00.
- Install the timing belt covers. For additional information, refer to Timing Drive Components — Timing Belt Covers in this section.
- Install the valve cover. For additional information, refer to Valve Cover in this section.
- Connect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
- Install the spark plugs.
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NOTE: Whenever an ignition wire is reinstalled, or a new wire is installed, apply dielectric compound to the interior surface of the spark plug wire boot.Connect the ignition wires to the spark plugs.
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