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2013 Ford Escape Titanium - 2.0L EcoBoost - Won't Star, Making this Cycling Noise

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May 4, 2019, 4:29 PM

Post #1 of 4 (638 views)
2013 Ford Escape Titanium - 2.0L EcoBoost - Won't Star, Making this Cycling Noise Sign In

Tried starting the it this morning and it whizzed out like a failing alternator or battery. Everything seemed on but the engine. All of a sudden a bunch of check engine and other errors went off and it was in a purgatory state... worst part I couldn't turn it off either.

It just sort of died by itself. OBD2 didn't even work on it.

It's a few hours later and now I noticed it's making the noise in the video and it won't stop.

Any ideas?


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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May 4, 2019, 5:24 PM

Post #2 of 4 (628 views)
Re: 2013 Ford Escape Titanium - 2.0L EcoBoost - Won't Star, Making this Cycling Noise Sign In

Video of marginal help. Sound like a very weak battery that can't do much for even cranking engine. If it went dead or disconnected you lost OBDII info.
Are items in place, belt(s) and other assorted items intact?

For now you should know you have a fully charged battery that is capable at all or other info is just confusing everything. How old is this battery if OE almost none last that long. Problem is old as dirt, the charging system will overwork, get a hot (too hot) alternator trying and damage to it and more stressed. Voltage might have gone nuts unregulated or with spikes and dips out of range? Just a maybe too common automotive batteries are not like all the devices we have they are perishable by time and use, harmed by heat more than cold.
It's job 1 to know it's up to par and keep track of how old toss them before troubles or it's happy to make plenty for you.

For now just know it's charged, strong and proper or other problems can't even be checked,



May 15, 2019, 3:54 PM

Post #3 of 4 (577 views)
Re: 2013 Ford Escape Titanium - 2.0L EcoBoost - Won't Star, Making this Cycling Noise Sign In

Does OBD ll work after charging the battery? I'm not as experienced as others whom might know to check other things but Amazon does have a battery tester in the event you're suspicious it may be the charging system failing.... I think a drained battery will lose obd data if it can't keep the car away to a minimum extent. It'll also let you test the charging current, so you know whether it's an alternator or not without having to disassemble the alternator to see if the contact rings are still intact....

The price isn't bad either. Worth keeping around for 32$....


(This post was edited by Hammer Time on May 15, 2019, 4:41 PM)

Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

May 16, 2019, 3:09 AM

Post #4 of 4 (557 views)
Re: 2013 Ford Escape Titanium - 2.0L EcoBoost - Won't Star, Making this Cycling Noise Sign In

Flooded, lead-acid batteries that have gone 'dead' or 'flat' at some call it will reset assorted things you might see a "not ready" checking with OBDII. It didn't have the CCAs to start so voltage also dropped by all odds below threshold. You can watch that with just a super cheap voltmeter if you charge it with a charger then just cranked it see the drop.
If only too low and you do get it going alternator will work hard many kill themselves trying hard to maintain a fully charged battery all the time it's not supposed to be low ever if it can't self charge up and operate within a normal range including the moments of cranking try charging it. Heat kills alternators and batteries add in the items that needed a correct range when not in use also possible damage or a re-learn period.
A battery test to me will either say some color or show actual voltage I'm more interested in.
Change gears here. Battery is perishable I've compared them to a head of lettuce peeling away outer layers/leaves the head of lettuce gets smaller and smaller till gone and you can't put those already peeled leaves back on - a rough way to explain it.

New or used they don't tolerate being way too low or dead as in will do nothing show zero for voltage. Those items all over this or older lost memory.

In short (no pun) how old is battery first it's marked? If it's just old it aged and is harmed by time worse if not kept fully charged which most are not when new you charge those first or AYOR on a new one.
The Domino effect of troubles is hard to know right away what else took a hit.
You need two thing to check it now. A charger with auto shut off. Add the load (cranking is a high load) watch volts drop and will but only so low unless engine is so tight for another reason also to know.

Spec I made up unless wildly cold (we are over that insanity) if just the quick crank if it starts or not drops below 10 or maybe 9V you have troubles with battery AMP power. It's got to go by age or when it can drop that much or forever a ping-pong game of extreme work by alternator and starter motors will get hot so you hear that flutter it's not going to attempt it would burn it with low voltage.
For now forget the novel on how it all works and fail you simply have to do any testing with a know good, fully charged battery. By 4 years old from date it was made the risk chart of them failing increases fast.
Just toss by age or the risk is waiting to cause damage to alternator and more damage to a battery.

Just note they are nothing like constant rechargeable items like other things we use, phones to be most common come back to full really don't mind running till too low. That's not the battery in a vehicle can't take that or might a couple times you just aren't sure.

Question #1. How old is it? 2013 could still have OE battery that can't be any good or trust it anymore yet some do behave that long. You aren't so test away with charger and even a cheap DVOM both for the tester cost at Amazon or close,


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