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Rear Brake question


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Noble
New User

Feb 9, 2015, 7:06 AM

Post #1 of 7 (1117 views)
Rear Brake question Sign In

On My 2008 Toyota Highlander Sport, my rear driver side brake pads were wore down to the steel plate while all other brake pads have 1/2 to 3/4 of ceramic left on them. I replaced both the rear rotors and pads on the Highlander. I also greased the caliper pins as those didn't seem to have much on them and were a little hard to move. The passenger side caliper had a small hole or rip in the caliper boot (Should i be concerned?). I was able to compress both calipers with little effort.
After I was done replacing the parts, I tested both rear wheels by placing the Highlander in neutral. As i spun both wheels by hand, i had my wife apply the brakes. Both wheels stopped and released properly telling me the calipers were not dragging the brakes and are releasing properly.
I'm very new at working on a brake system. Does it sound like the calipers need to be replace or does it sound like i resolved the issue and shouldn't experiencing anymore issues with the driver side brake pads?


Thank you


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Feb 9, 2015, 7:27 AM

Post #2 of 7 (1107 views)
Re: Rear Brake question Sign In

Quote">>
I'm very new at working on a brake system.<<"


It's a terrible place to learn without hands on help - no mistakes. By the sounds of things this needs the whole job for rears, calipersm, flex hoses, rotors, pads and if this uses a parking brake inside rotor possibly that too and any cable not perfect for those as well. Seems like this might have been dunked in water over the brakes at some point or just dumb luck with one side wearing out like that vs the other and that happens. Always best to do both sides equally with brakes,


T



Noble
New User

Feb 9, 2015, 8:02 AM

Post #3 of 7 (1103 views)
Re: Rear Brake question Sign In

Yes that's true. Hands on help would be best from someone that knows what their doing. Unfortunately I don't have that person :) . So I've had to relay on You tube videos for my model car and AllDataDIY step by step instructions. The Pads and rotors are not hard, its the troubleshooting part of it that i struggle with. I've watched a video this morning on how to replace the calipers and doesn't look hard. Just need to make sure i get all the air out of the line and bleed them properly when I'm done. Thank you for in input and I'll very much consider replacing the calipers and brake hoses.




Thank you


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Feb 9, 2015, 8:05 AM

Post #4 of 7 (1102 views)
Re: Rear Brake question Sign In

If you pushed the pistons back easily and lubed the slides and the brakes are releasing, I wouldn't worry about it. Sounds like the calipers are fine.



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We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



(This post was edited by Hammer Time on Feb 9, 2015, 8:05 AM)


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Feb 9, 2015, 8:27 AM

Post #5 of 7 (1097 views)
Re: Rear Brake question Sign In

Plenty of not sure quite yet.
You said you knew they were ceramic pads? Tell me, does this vehicle specify them or you asked for them or what? I was psyched when they first became popular by "Centric" I think - claims of no dust, forever life (not) and did lose a pad off backing plate and they looked like great quality pads vs some I've seen. Then another did that on another person's vehicle.


Not working on other's vehicles at all but aware of what gets done around me with folks. Rusty here is the common early cause of problems but can buy better stuff. Know that none of the stuff likes being dunked under water if that ever happened. Didn't you mention a sticky pin and ripped boot to a piston? NG - why is the question for that.


Water issues: Any reason, flooded, drove thru a surprise puddle or found common with vehicles the launch boats and put 1/2 the vehicle under water to get the boat off! Any reason what clearly happens is warm brake, bearings, calipers, wheel cylinder if used suck in water when they cool off suddenly - you are screwed to need lots - got the t-shirt on that crap.


Brake stuff short of a military Hummer is just water resistant not water proof for being submerged. If my own and knew it would instantly take things apart and re-lube everything possible and get water out,


T



Noble
New User

Feb 9, 2015, 8:52 AM

Post #6 of 7 (1092 views)
Re: Rear Brake question Sign In

You make a good point about the pad falling off the back plate. I've heard of that happening with ceramics and now that i think about it, that's probably what happened. I believe Champion auto put those pads on the car 50,000 miles ago. I think they used the "perfect stop" brand....never heard of them but the anti-vibration plate had that name on them. Maybe they were a poor quality. The OEM part number for the pads are 0446648120. I "think" they are ceramic and that's what I replaced them with last night. Nothing I could find was rusted as far as the caliper and bracket. The back plate had some rust on it but seem to have been ok. The parking brakes looked find and I adjusted those and seem to work well.
I haven't towed a boat with this, so they shouldn't have been fully submerged in water. But I'm sure it's been through puddles that may have submerged it.




Thank you


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
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Feb 9, 2015, 9:09 AM

Post #7 of 7 (1088 views)
Re: Rear Brake question Sign In

OK - By rights any pad should be sealed pad to backing plate and NOT rust such that it throws off the lining. IDK for sure about the "ceramics" if they are more prone to the issue but will NOT buy them again by any brand because of that alone.


They were quiet, no dust then missing in action - doesn't cut it with me.


I don't think it's going to totally matter as long as they will be at least misted with water from normal rain if that is going to happen screw that. Of course all of a sudden the metal backing plate to rotor will trash rotor or worse if piston(s) come out too far they can cock and jam too. Those even if you can persuade them to go back in straight and not leak I don't trust that for crap.


Not driving much to wear out my own anymore but have had excellent luck with NAPA's "True Stop" - who knows who makes them? Mid priced for them. Higher price can be for other reasons not wanted by all and IMO more apt to be noisy for those vehicles that noise is an issue - some never are and some you can jump thru all hoops and they still make noise?


Not a fan of now totally common rear disc brakes as they catch the rain and water from the front wheels - drums don't but most you need to clean or dump brake dust out if nothing else over the life of them. Can't win at all types,


T







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